If you’ve been reading this blog for a while, it will come as no news to you that I, the proprietoress of it, am a supremely lazy creature. I am also a fairly busy creature, which may seem to be contradictory at first glance, but really it isn’t.
The apparent contradiction comes from the misuse and abuse of the word ‘lazy’ – the word has such a bad connotation in a lot of Western cultures. Lazy people are viewed as slothful, unethical and other bad things. I agree neither with the fact that being lazy is a bad thing in itself, nor that being lazy has to mean that all one does is lay on the sofa, eat chips, and watch soap operas. For reference, while I enjoy my sofa, and allow myself to eat potato chips occasionally, I don’t even own a TV, and I blame the internet for informing me of the existence of the Kardashians – I could have really continued to live without knowing that they exist.
But I digress – I was talking of laziness, and I was about to elaborate on a French dessert at some point, too. Let us speak of that and not of various BS that apparently spews forth from the screen if you are careless enough to own a TV set and cable. Ugh. No. What I mean by being shamelessly and happily lazy, is the fact that when I do have a free day, I do not feel the pressing need to fill it with doing stuff just for the sake of doing stuff and being productive. I don’t feel any need to be productive on my days off. It would seem to me to defy the purpose of days off. So when people might go on about all the gazillion things they got done before lunch on a Sunday, the total sum of what I may have accomplished before noon that day is brushing teeth, and drinking coffee that T has made for me, and some conversation. I consider laziness a luxury, something that allows me to enjoy life, and therefore also a necessity – for the purpose of said life enjoyment.
Which brings me to dessert, and chocolate and the fact that French really know how to do dessert, and they have also mastered the art of enjoying life, and being lazy in the right way. Making gorgeous, luxurious French chocolate creams, aka Pots au Chocolat, is one of those pleasures that doesn’t have to take all day, isn’t complicated, and requires just a little bit of patience, and then some more patience, and no particularly fancy skills. It does, however, require not fearing dessert in all of its fatty, sweet, delicious glory.
French chocolate creams are not for the faint of
heart butter, and I say this as someone who agrees with Julia Child’s immortal quote that goes something like “if you are afraid of butter, just use cream”. Because if you want to make a luxurious dessert, then you really can’t be going the fat-free, sugar-free, dairy-free, joy-free deliciousness-free route. A block of tofu dressed up to look as cheesecake with pretty berries on top is still a block of tofu (with berries on top, and I am not knocking the berries). A cheesecake requires cream cheese, sugar, eggs, and all those things that are not a block of tofu. And really, if I want to eat a good-for-me vegetarian meal, it’s called a “large lunch salad” and it happens all the time in our house, and I don’t need to be abusing the idea of dessert for the sake of healthy eating. If I want a healthy dessert, I will eat a piece of fruit or those selfsame berries, hold the tofu please. Seriously.
But, when it comes to a rich, decadent dessert like chocolate creams, the French really have the right idea about not being too awful to their own health and still enjoying life: you need to not eat half a kilogram of it in one sitting, that’s all. Which is why I make these in teeny tiny glass cups intended for drinking glögg (heated spiced Nordic version of mulled wine), and serve it with the daintiest spoons I can find because that’s what is needed in order to get to the bottom of those tiny cups. And while this stuff probably has a bazillion calories (a totally valid technical term) per kilogram, just… don’t eat a kilogram of it, ok? I mean, it’d be an effort to, because they are so incredibly rich that really, one of those is enough for me, and I love dessert.
I mean, some people don’t have to watch their weight,
and we hate those people so those people can certainly eat more than one serving of this without much detriment to their health, but so far I haven’t met a person with enough of a sweet tooth to eat more than one in one sitting – even the self-admitted chocaholics – but that’s not to say that I’ll not run into someone who can. All I am saying is that you can still enjoy this dessert, just don’t eat the whole batch of it alone. Or do, if that floats your chocolate boat.
I have adapted this recipe from a French blog (she has some gorgeous photos of her chocolate creams on there, done up in teeny Japanese teacups). I don’t read French, but Google translate does, and certainly well enough to puzzle out a not-too-complicated recipe. The reason I bothered with that, is that a lot of English-language recipes for non-anglophone-country dishes tend to be… messed up. The problem is typically that instead of being translated, they are adapted to the food culture of the country from which the person adapting them hails, and that is typically to the detriment of the original dessert. Pro tip – if you want a recipe for a German apple cake, just google ‘Apfelkuchen‘ and run it through the translator, it’ll be fine. Better than fine – it’ll be German apple cake and it’ll be awesome (the recipe linked above is the one I use for my German apple cake and yes, it’s fantastic).
But, back to French matters and chocolate – all the recipes for French chocolate creams I’ve seen in English have been too fussy and had a lot of unnecessary ingredients (cornstarch? gelatin? wtf?!). The original French dessert has two. Yes, you’ve heard it right, two ingredients: heavy whipping cream (fat content 35-45%), and good chocolate (none of that ‘chocolate cake coating’ garbage, you need real 45-70% cocoa mass chocolate for this). I insist that the chocolate should be good because honestly, if you make this with a Hershey bar, it’s your own
funeral failed dessert, and you will deserve the disgusting waxy results. I usually add a third ingredient – a real alcohol-based vanilla extract. I make my own, but a good shop-bought one will obviously work. No, don’t be tempted to add ‘vanilla sugar’ or fake vanilla extract – when a dessert has as few ingredients as this, the quality matters, and it’s best to just go with the cream and chocolate.
Ingredients for a batch of 9 tiny cups:
- 600ml heavy whipping cream (I’ve used 35% and 40% fat before with equally good success – it will not set at a lesser fat percentage, so don’t bother).
- 225g good chocolate (good-quality real baking chocolate is fine here). I use 45-55% cocoa chocolate because I am not the fan of the 70% stuff, but you can certainly use the latter – decrease the amount to 200g, however, as it is going to make the creams more stiff.
- 2-5 teaspoons real vanilla extract (alcohol-based, entirely optional, and not using any at all is better than using crappy vanillin or vanilla sugar)
The technique for this is simple, but not easy, in the sense that it’s not a “microwave on high for X minutes, dump into bowl” sort of dessert. However, if you are willing to put in a few minutes of effort and attention, it’s not difficult, either – and certainly not complicated.
Here’s what you do:
- Prepare your cups. I typically stand them into a lidded plastic container where they won’t move around much (you can pad them with some wadded aluminium foil or paper towel if your container is too large), and which is at least 1cm taller than the top edge of cups.
- Break your chocolate into as small pieces as it’ll go. If you are using the really large baking chocolate squares, cut those with a sharp knife into pieces no larger than 3x3x1cm.
- Pour your cream into a heavy-bottomed pot, and heat on medium-low heat, stirring constantly because cream burns like oh my god, especially if you walk away for half a minute, until the cream comes to a simmer.
- Take the pot off the heat, and immediately dump in all the chocolate. Allow to stand for a few minutes, then whisk until all the chocolate is dissolved. This will look like a thick chocolate milk.
- Put the pot back on the medium-low heat, and bring back to a simmer, stirring constantly with a whisk or a silicone spatula (I prefer the spatula but whisk has worked for me before).
- If using vanilla, stir it in at this point.
- Once the chocolate comes to a simmer, simmer (stirring constantly!) for 3 minutes. You will notice the liquid thickening a very little bit – it’ll offer a little more resistance as you stir. Take the pot off heat, give it a final stir, and pour carefully into prepared cups or ramekins or whatever.
- Place the box of cups into the refrigerator without a lid on. You can place a paper towel over the top but I have been fine just leaving it open.
- In about 1 hour, take the box out (the creams will not be fully set yet, so be careful not to shake it too much!), and snap the lid on. Place it back in the refrigerator, and chill for at least 8 hours (I do this overnight). Place pretty berries on top if you like.
This dessert must be kept refrigerated, and served chilled, but there is no need to freeze it. I suspect it’ll keep fine in a closed box in the refrigerator for a few days, but I cannot offer you any sort of assurance on the subject – I have never had it survive its first contact with the guests.